Emerald Cut diamond: Step by step guide to choose the best one

At the time when Michelangelo sculpted “David” and Leonardo da Vinci painted the famous “Mona Lisa”, the cutters in the diamond world were busy in carving a unique cutting style that is called “Emerald Cut”. A simple yet elegant looking Emerald cut was first intended to cut Emerald gems, later it was adapted to diamond’s cutting.

An Emerald cut diamond has 57 to 58 facets. Unlike Round Brilliant Cut, which is famous for its sparkle and brilliance, Emerald cut is known for its “hall of mirrors” like effect. Its steps of stairs like facets in the pavilion and crown gives it a classic look.

You will be amazed to know that of all the diamonds only 3 percent diamonds are Emerald cut.

From Angelina Jolie to Kim Kardashian, from Eva Longoria to Victoria Beckham, they all flaunted and adored this simple yet classy look of Emerald Cut diamond only to enhance its demand in recent years.

So, if you are looking for an Emerald cut diamond or diamond ring that means you have a unique taste. Get ready to join the elite club. Be with me till the end, I will explain to you in detail what to look for in an Emerald cut diamond and from where you can get the stunning emerald cut diamond.

Why should you choose an emerald cut diamond?

  • costly than Round Brilliant Cut diamond
  • Very clean looking
  • Its cropped corner reduces the chances of chipping
  • Amazing in solitaire and halo setting
  • Its elongated shape makes your finger look slender and beautiful
  • Larger top facet (Table) area in comparison to round brilliant cut gives the impression of bigger size in same carat weight

What to look for in an Emerald Cut diamond?

  1. Ideal Length to width ratio
  2. Clarity
  3. Color
  4. Cut Proportions
  5. Polish & Symmetry
  6. ASET image report
  7. Ideal Ring Setting
  8. Where to buy?

1. Ideal Length to Width Ratio:

A classic length to width ratio of an Emerald cut is 1.00:1.50. However, some people prefer a more squarish shape like 1.00:1.03. Its totally an individual’s personal choice and preference. You should choose what appeals you the most. Anything between 1:1.30 to 1:1.60 also looks good.

Have a look at the following Emerald Cut diamonds having different length to width ratios

Emerald Cut Diamond-Ideal Length to width Ratios
Emerald Cut Diamonds in different Length to Width Ratios

2. Clarity Preference:

Inclusions or flaws in Emerald Cut diamond are easily visible because of its larger facets. Hence, it is advisable to go for VS1 or better clarity for best result.

See the following images and you will know why I am saying this.

Emerald Cut diamond's clarity guide
See the difference between VS1 & VS2 Clarity in an Emerald Cut Diamond

VS2 Clarity in round shape (Round Brilliant Cut) is considered to be Very good quality because, round shape diamonds facets hide inclusions very well.

However, here in Emerald cut you can see clearly the inclusions due to its large and open facets. Hence, you should go for VS1 or better clarity if you are choosing an Emerald Cut diamond to get the best result.

3. Color Guide: Pick the Right Color

Emerald cut’s broad and open facets hold color well. You need to be careful here in choosing a color grade. D to F color grade are considered to be the best in colorless range.

As they sit at the top of the quality chart they come with a premium price. I would suggest you should go for G color which gives excellent quality and good value for money. My fifteen years’ experience in this industry says selecting “G” color won’t give you any room to complain.

4. Cut Proportions: Useful Guidelines

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or AGS (American Gems Society) do not certify Emerald Cut’s cut-grade. However, there is near unanimity among the experts about its ideal Cut proportions. You should choose between this range to get the best one.

Emerald Cut Most Appealing Cut Proportions
Table % 60-65 %
Total Depth % 60-65 %
Crown Height 12-15 %
Girdle Very thin to Slightly Thick or Thin to Thick
Culet None

5. Polish & Symmetry: Very helpful to know a diamond’s cut-quality in absence of Cut-grade report

Polish refers to the surface finishing of the diamond while Symmetry defines how perfectly its edges are met, how identical its facet sizes are, and how even its girdle is.

In the absence of GIA or AGS cut-grading report, Polish & Symmetry provides useful insight into the quality of an Emerald cut diamond.

Always go for an Excellent or Very Good Polish and Symmetry grade. Do not go below Very good Polish or Symmetry grade otherwise the quality of your diamond is compromised.

6. ASET image report: Scientific & Logical

This report is very helpful especially for people having a little or no knowledge about the quality of the diamond.

ASET stands for Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool. This magic tool was introduced by AGS (American Gems Society) in 2005 to evaluate a diamond’s light performance.

A diamond’s sparkle and brilliance are the result of its reaction to light in different conditions. It defines how well your diamond is cut. In absence of GIA and AGS’s cut grading report it is very helpful in determining the quality of a diamond.

This is so far the most advanced, easy to understand, and scientific method of knowing a diamond’s light performance. It categorically shows the light return (resulting sparkling and brilliance) and light leakages (causing windowing and dark patches in the diamond) in different colors.

Red stands for excellent light return, Green shows reflective light return, Blue indicates contrast (good for brilliance), and white or black displays light leakages.

Let’s understand this with a real image.

ASET image report of an Emerald cut diamond
ASET report of an Emerald Cut diamond which shows its cut quality

You should always ask for an ASET report and choose a diamond which has more red and green areas in it.

Note: There is another tool which also measures light performance of a diamond that is “Ideal Scope”. Remember, this tool is good for round brilliant cut but when it comes to Fancy Shape diamonds like Emerald Cut it is not that reliable. Keep this thing in mind and vie for ASET report only to get the best result.

7. Ideal Setting for Emerald Cut Diamond:

Emerald cut looks simple but has the power to become very sophisticated especially when it combines with settings like Halo and Solitaire. Adored by celebrities like Beyoncé, Eva Longoria, and many others, Emerald Cut diamond’s demand has been growing in recent years.

Have a look at the amazing Emerald cut rings in Solitaire and Halo settings.

Emerald Cut Diamond engagement ring-James Allen
beautiful James Allen Emerald Cut diamond engagement rings

8. Where to get your stunning Emerald Cut diamond or Ring?

There are two places from where you can get Emerald cut diamonds or rings i.e. the Brick & Mortar stores and The Online Diamond stores.

Brick & Mortar Stores: You will get these stores in your nearest locations from where you can get the diamonds or rings of your choice. You can see the diamonds and can decide which one to choose.

However, there are some limitations in these stores. Firstly, they have very limited inventories in comparison to Online Stores. You may not get a particular size, color or clarity diamond or a particular design.

You may also not get the advanced tools like ASET report or certificate from AGS or GIA. You will have limited time to choose from limited options without sufficient information.

Secondly, Diamonds or rings in a B&Ms are costlier than the Online Stores because of its high overhead cost.


Online Stores: Fast Growing & Reliable

Limitations in a B&M are the biggest advantages in the Online Stores. An Online Store has hundreds of thousands of diamonds in different settings and designs in its inventories. Cutting edge technology has proved to be blessings in many ways which provide enough info on a diamond even if you have zero knowledge about it and its quality.

For a novice it may take hours to get adjusted to the loupe to see what’s inside a diamond in a B&M store. But HD images and videos with 360 degree viewing angle have made it super easy for you in an Online store. You can compare as many diamonds with different settings and metals until you are satisfied that this is the one.

ASET report or Ideal Scope report, GIA certificate or AGS certificate, any color whether White or Fancy, any size and any Clarity, you name it, you get it. There is no dearth of availability in an Online diamond store.

You can refund your order if you are not satisfied with the product and you will get your money back without any hassle is one of the many attractive offers an Online Store offers keeping in mind the experience of a customer in a B&M store.

I would recommend the following Online Stores for best quality products and after-sale services.James Allen is one of the most renowned and popular Online stores for its high-end user-friendly interface and its after sale services.

Emerald Cut diamond engagement rings in different settings
Stunning Emerald cut diamond rings in different settings

Brian Gavin is the second place I would recommend to you for its hand-picked best quality diamonds in any shape and size.

Brian Gavin Emerald Cut Diamond & Engagement rings
Gorgeous Brian Gavin Emerald Cut Diamond & Rings

Leibish is your destination if you want Color (Fancy Color) diamonds.

Fancy Color Emerald Cut diamond rings from Leibish
Fabulous Fancy-Color Emerald cut diamond rings

Recently, I have come across an Online Store that is Fascinating Diamonds. What is fascinating about it is its amazing combination of Diamonds with gemstones. You should see the following rings and jewelry to believe me.

Fascinating Emerald Cut diamond engagement rings
Fascinating Emerald Cut diamond rings

These are some of the highly recommended Online stores who are giving best quality products and services. You may find your own Online store if you do not find what you are looking for in your budget and choice.

Conclusion: Emerald Cut is for people who have unique taste. This cut looks simple but the choice of ring settings makes it sophisticated. You should follow the above guidelines to get the best one. Do not compromise its quality on Color and Clarity as Emerald Cut’s open and broad facets are not able to hide color and inclusions well. Choose an ideal length to width ratio for attractive appearance.

Keep your parameters ready for an attractive diamond and search it in an Online Store, I am sure you will get it.

Read Next……………Princess Cut diamond buying guide

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