Marquise Cut Diamond: Step by Step guide to choose the best one

Marquise Cut: Symbol of Love

Love can do wonders. Taj Mahal, the New7Wonders of the world in India, is the living example of this. We know how the Mughal Emperor Saha Jahan constructed this wonderful tomb in the memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz. We have numerous examples in the world history that tells us how emperors found unique ways to show their unflinching love to their queens. Marquise cut is another example of love and innovation.

It was named after the mistress of the French King Louis XV, Marquise de Pompadour. It is believed that it resembled the shape of her lips and represented the intoxicating smile of her face.

How romantic!!!

taj marquise ready.jpg

In short Marquise cut has been associated with love and beauty since its birth. This is also known as “navette” which in French means “little ship”.

What is Marquise Cut?

Shaped like a little boat, Marquise cut is like Oval shape with pointed ends at both sides. It has 57 facets like Round brilliant cut that boasts of brilliance and sparkle. Its pavilion facets can vary from four to eight. You should prefer what visually attracts you most.

Why choose a Marquise Cut?

  • blessing for petite or short finger as its elongated shape makes the finger look longer
  • it appears larger than its carat weight due to its large face up
  • Like round brilliant cut, its 57 facets offer same brilliance and sparkle like its colleagues Pear, Oval, and Heart shape.
  • less costly than round brilliant cut
  • It looks stunning with classic Halo and Art deco, remember the gorgeous ring of Ashlee Simpson (view image at the bottom of this blog)

Word of Caution:

  • Not advisable to wear Marquise cut with open point. It carries the risk of chipping sooner than later. Extra care should be taken to protect its point. V-prong or Bezel setting is the best option.
  • Marquise cut has bow-tie effect (grey to dark shadow formed from culet to pavilion, seen in the face up view). You should see its image/video to judge how good or bad it looks. Grading certificate does not provide any information about it.

How to choose a Marquise Cut Diamond?

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and AGSL (American Gems Society Laboratories), world’s two most trusted and renowned labs do not provide cut-grade report of Marquise cut diamond. So it is more important to know what to look for in a Marquise cut diamond. Let’s find out.

ASET Report: You might have heard about Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (ASET) which analyzes diamond’s (Round and Fancy both) light performance to judge its cut grade and measure a diamond’s brilliance and sparkle.

This is by far the most advanced and scientific tool. This amazing tool takes care of all your doubts and questions regarding a diamond’s scintillation.

It is not always true that a well cut diamond will display superb light return. Even an excellent cut diamond may have light leakages at times. So here ASET’s job is to find out the light leakages and show you which one to choose that is giving optimum light return.

ASET image report is the best answer for newbie’s who have little or no knowledge about diamond and its CUT. I would say it is super helpful to judge a Marquise cut diamond’s brilliance and sparkle.

Why ASET report is important to judge Marquise Cut?

ASET provides a detailed analysis of diamond’s light performances. Its report shows clearly from where the light is returning to viewers eyes and from where the light is leaking out making the diamond look dull, dark or less brilliant.

It defines light leakages and light returns in different colors i.e. red represents excellent light return, green represents reflective light return, blue is contrast, and white shows light leakages.

You should be choosing a Marquise cut diamond that has maximum red and green areas as per the ASET report while avoiding the white.

However, if you do not have access to ASET report in your areas then you should follow the guidelines below to get the best Marquise cut diamond.

Followings are some of the widely accepted parameters to close in your search for the best Marquise Cut diamond:

Length to width ratio: Marquise Cut

This is the first thing comes to notice when you see a diamond. Length to width ratio plays a major role in the overall appearance of Marquise cut. I am sure you will not like a bulgy or unattractive shape. Let’s see the ideal Length to width ratio that makes a Marquise cut more desirable.

Experts ViewsLength to width ratio
GIA2:1 (Ideal L/W)
Lumera Diamonds1.75 to 2.15
77diamonds London1.85 to 2.10
Leibish1.85 to 2.10

From the above table you can see though the ideal length to width ratio is 2:1, it is near unanimity among the experts about its length to width ratio. You should select anything between these ranges to get the best looking shape.

length2width marquise ready.jpg

Symmetry: Marquise Cut Diamond

Like length to width ratio, poor symmetry makes the diamond unattractive or out of shape. Imagine an artist makes a beautiful image of a girl. He made all efforts to make it attractive by using best colors but made her eyes and eyebrows uneven. Will you like the image with uneven eyes of the girl? Nobody will. It is going to look ugly. This is called symmetry in diamond language.

In diamond, every facets, its angles, and proportions have to be that perfect to get an excellent symmetry grade. Any mismatch in facets sizes, deviation in angles, and poor proportions will make Marquise cut look not only unattractive but will also have serious light performance issues.

Uneven curve of belly and wings, wavy or very thick girdle, off centered culet, extra or missing facets are some of the symmetrical issues that affect the visual appeal of Marquise cut (or any diamond). A perfectly symmetrical diamond is not only appealing but also very graceful to eyes.

symmetry marquise comp ready.jpg

So select a Marquise cut with either excellent or Very good symmetry grade.

Bow-tie effect: Marquise Cut

This is an inseparable part in elongated shapes like Marquise, Oval, Heart and Pear. You can’t escape from it. However, you need to see Marquise cut in person or its HD images/video to gauge its positive or negative effect on the diamond. Deep or shallow cut diamond shows visually distracted bow-tie shadows that black out most part of the diamond.

A well cut diamond shows minimal bow-tie that is considered to be good for contrast and brightness. As you cannot judge its effect like color or clarity that is clearly defined in the grading report you need to see it to like it or dislike it.

Ideal Cut proportions: Marquise Cut

In Fancy shapes/cuts this one is not only important but also very tricky due to unclear standardization. GIA and AGSL are silent about the ideal cut standard of Marquise cut.

So what to do? What is the solution?

You have to rely on experts those are actively involved in evaluating and experimenting in finding the best cut proportions for optimum brilliance and sparkle.

Here are some of the renowned experts’ recommendations for best cut parameters. Follow the guidelines and it will help you in short listing the best ones.

Lumera DiamondsQuality Diamonds,UKPetra Gems
Table %Ex- 53 – 63

VG- 52 or 64 – 65





Total Depth %Ex. 58 – 62

VG. 56-57.9 or 62.1-66





GirdleEx/VG-Very thin to

Slightly Thick

Ex/VG-Very thin to

Slightly Thick

Length to Width



VG. 1.75-1.84 or 2.01-2.15




VG. 1.74-1.80 or 2.06-2.25

CuletExcellent:- None,

VG.-Very small

Excellent:- None,

VG.-Very small,Medium

*Ex.- Excellent, VG.- Very Good

Color tips: Marquise cut shows off color well. Hence, go for H or better color to get best result. For ring settings in white gold or platinum it helps in accentuating its brightness. Similarly, rose gold or yellow gold goes well with I, J, and K colors.

Clarity tips: Like color, clarity plays important role in the looks of a Marquise cut. VS2 or better is the recommended clarity for it. However, if you are ok with inclusions that are not visible to naked eye (eye-clean) you may go with SI1 clarity for good value for money.

Avoid clarity based on clouds, be it VS2 or SI1. Do not go for diamond having inclusions in the center. I will also not suggest you to go for SI2 clarity as inclusions in it are clearly visible in naked eyes. So, it is up to you to choose a clarity grade that is acceptable to you.

Ring settings: Marquise Cut

Classic Halo and Art deco give stunning look to Marquise cut. Who can forget the beautiful ring of Ashlee Simpson? That was a peculiar mixture of art deco with contemporary design.

Bezel setting is best for active life style. You should be careful in choosing a solitaire setting. Choosing prongs that protect its points well should be your first priority in selecting solitaire setting.

You should see some Marquise rings to believe how gorgeous it looks in these settings.

james marquise ring ready.jpg

Visit the site to see more….

Marquise cut is a blessing for petite or short finger. Its elongated shape makes short finger look longer. So it is a good choice for them.

Want to see more? Have a look at the following rings, I bet you will love to have it.

fascinating marquise ring ready.jpg

Visit the site to see more….


Marquise cut, as the design was born out of love, it always carries that message with it. It is cheaper than round brilliant cut. By choosing a Marquise cut, the money saved can be utilized for better color or better clarity. If you can be a little innovative, this shape can give your ring a breath taking look like Ashlee Simpsons. Fancy color Marquise cut are a treat to eyes, if your budget permit, you will love to go for it.

Have a look at Ashlee Simpsons ring: The Center stone Marquise cut diamond is surrounded by many diamonds and gemstones, one of the most beautiful Marquise cut rings in recent times.

ashlee simpson pinterestdotcom ready.jpg

Lastly, choose a Marquise cut that appeals to you visually. It is a good practice to short list Marquise cut diamonds that attract you most at the first look. Then apply the above guidelines to select the best one. The parameters and proportions provide a helping hand just to get you there.

Hope you have a fair idea now about how to go about a Marquise Cut diamond. Enjoy shopping.

Read Next……...Cushion Cut, Princess Cut

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